The Legendary Black Water Company

This last weekend, I went to Waitomo with my good friend and excellent travelling comrade, Laura. She has been wanting to "black water" tube (tubing down a river, only underground through limestone cave networks) as soon as she found out about it. This was something I had not even bothered to highlight in my guide book since a) I'm slightly claustrophobic and, b) being underground, especially in the "Shaky Isle" kind of creeps me out. However, Laura has gamely done everything I've wanted to, even sailing, despite seasickness!

Okay, so I was prepared to do an hour of underground tubing with a headlamp - who knows, it could even be fun. Laura and I talked a lot about positive imagery, deep breathing exercises, etc. The Thursday before we departed for Waitomo, Laura decided she just HAD to do the Black Abyss: Yes, you tube on an underground river, but you get there by abseiling (repelling) down a tomo (shaft/hole in the ground). Did I mention the tomo is 30 meters (120 feet!) How horrifying. Did I mention I'm severely acrophobic (I cry, clutch, hyperventilate if I get too far off the ground - about 3 rungs up a ladder usually does it for me). Laura, being her usual gracious self (and probably not wanting bawling hyperventilating company on her adventure) said she was prepared to go alone. I'm not sure what happened, but Friday I decided I would go along. I mean, she got seasick! All that was going to happen to me was a crying episode...in front of a group of strangers...perhaps fainting, ridiculously high blood pressure...ah, I digress. Anyway, Laura was shocked and ecstatic that I would be accompanying her on the Black Abyss. I did not sleep Friday night. Perhaps my body thought if it was tired enough it could go to sleep just before the abseil.

Saturday we arrived at The Legendary Black Water Company - pictures will follow. Of course I need to mention that they have an excellent cafe - some of the best food I've eaten (I know I keep saying that). I had a satay chicken in phyllo with a wonderful salad, and an incredible slice of pizza - sort of a "last supper" if you will. The staff suggest eating a large meal before your adventure (well, not right before) as you will be in 55 degree water off and on for about 3 hours. Even in wetsuits, you will burn a lot of energy keeping warm.

Next, we signed legal release forms. Wheeeee - I just love reading about the inherent danger of an activity I'm about to engage in. Then we suited up - easier said than done. After changing into our swim suits, we pulled on wetsuit booties (booties first as it helps you pull the rest of the wetsuit on), then the overalls - really attractive, snug everywhere but the crotch, I imagined it's to leave room in case of an accident...I digress. Next the wetsuit jacket, a balaclava, a helmet, and gummies (little rubber boots). Finally, a pair of absolutely gorgeous shorts to protect the wetsuit from abrasion. Need I mention that it is IMPERATIVE that you pee BEFORE you put your gear on.

After we were suited up, we all put on our abseiling harnesses and we were off on our adventure. We did a bit of practice "abseiling" on a hill to learn how to work the equipment. This was very helpful and I felt a bit calmer. Then we had a short walk to the platform over the tomo. You clip on to the safety rail before nearing the edge of the platform. Guess who went first - me. Get the screamer over with! Surprisingly, I did quite well. It helps that the 120 foot shaft is very, very dark - I just never looked down. There's one point where the tomo gets a bit narrow, but I just let gravity work; I figured if Rich (one of our guides) had fit through there, so could I. All of the sudden, I was at the bottom! Hooray for Teej! And no crying!

We caved for awhile - it really is amazing when you're 120 feet below the surface. It's incredible. It really is like another planet. It's gorgeous: Stalactites, stalagmites, glowworms, the sound of rushing water filling your ears. It's indescribable, and you MUST do this if you ever visit NZ!

We hooked on to a zip line to descend to the underground river - what a blast!!! Pitch black and nothing but glowworms and space all around you - it was awesome. When we all got to the bottom, we had hot tea and cave cookies (DELICIOUS - I swear, it's worth taking this trip just for the cookies). Then, we had the option of jumping off a cliff into the river or walking down - I jumped! Go Teej! Laura and I were cracking up, trying to figure what had gotten into me!

We tubed for awhile, sometimes having races to keep warm. Again, the glowworms and mineral formations were stunning. For the last portion of our adventure we climbed up, down, and under some waterfalls - it was worth the squeezes and the heights, and I consider this adventure one of my greatest accomplishments to date. It was definitely worth facing my fears to see one of the natural wonders of the world.

Finally, I'd like to say that I'm not sure I could've done this without Louisa and Rich, our guides: They were funny, competent and confident, and they took great care of us. Don't pinch pennies on black water - go with the pros - you'll have a GREAT time, you'll learn a lot, and they'll get you through it all with a smile on your face. Oh yeah, and only The Legendary Black Water Company have these cookies.

Love from NZ